Choosing a Hat Brim and Crown for Your Face Shape

Hats are the one accessory people abandon after one bad photograph, usually because the proportion was wrong, not the hat.

Brim width should roughly match the width of your shoulders, and crown height does the opposite of what you expect: a taller crown lengthens a round face.

Hats and Caps - nine examples
Nine hats and caps on the same face.

Examples from the blog

Measure your head first

Hat sizes are real measurements, not small, medium and large guesses. Run a soft tape around your head, just above the ears and across the middle of your forehead, keeping it level at the back. That circumference is what sizing charts are built on. Heads vary more than people assume, and a centimetre in either direction separates a hat you forget about from a headache.

Fit testing takes about ten minutes. Wear the hat indoors, take it off, and look at your forehead in the mirror. A red line means the hat is too small, and felt will not stretch enough to rescue it. Shake your head gently from side to side: if the hat slides forward over your eyebrows it is too big, and sizing tape inside the sweatband is the standard fix.

How felt and straw handle weather

Wool felt copes with light rain and returns to shape if you dry it properly: brim up, away from direct heat, on a flat surface. Felt that dries on a radiator shrinks and goes hard, and that damage is permanent. Straw behaves in the opposite way. It softens and goes limp when wet, and cheap paper straw can lose its shape completely in one shower.

Wind sets a practical limit on brim width. Wide flat brims catch air like a sail, so an afternoon outdoors turns into holding your hat with one hand. Brims with a slight downward curve front and back sit far more steadily. Try turning your head quickly while wearing one in the shop; a well proportioned hat stays put without you touching it.

More hats and caps to try on

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Questions people actually ask

Flat or curved brim on a cap?

Curved is neutral and reads as everyday. Flat is a streetwear signal and looks deliberate only if the rest of the outfit agrees.

How far down should a beanie sit?

Covering the tops of the ears. Higher than that and it perches, which is the look most people are trying to avoid.

Can a hat be resized?

Felt hats can be stretched a little by a hatter and made smaller with sizing tape inside the sweatband, so one size too big is a cheap fix. Straw and structured caps have almost no give, so buy those close to your measured head size from the start.

Can I machine wash a cap?

Better not. Structured crowns and stiffened brims warp in a drum and rarely recover their shape. Hand wash cool, working a soft brush over the sweatband where the staining is, rinse well, then dry it over something round. Air dry only, never on a radiator.

Try these on your own photo

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