Vest vs Waistcoat, the Same Garment on Two Continents

Waistcoat is British English and vest is American English for the same sleeveless tailored garment worn under a jacket, but vest in British English also means a sleeveless undershirt, which is where the confusion comes from.

This is a translation problem more than a fashion one, but it causes real ordering mistakes. An American asking for a vest in a London shop may be shown underwear.

Vest vs Waistcoat side by side
Waistcoats and vests.
Who calls it what
Garment British American
Tailored, worn under a jacket Waistcoat Vest
Sleeveless undershirt Vest Undershirt or tank
Padded sleeveless jacket Gilet or body warmer Vest or puffer vest

How to tell them apart in a photo

Context does it. If someone mentions a three piece suit, they mean the tailored one whichever word they use.

Which one should you pick

With a suit

The bottom button stays undone, and the waistcoat should be long enough that no shirt shows above the trouser waistband.

Examples from the blog

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Related

Suits and Tuxedos · Suit vs Tuxedo

Questions people actually ask

What is a gilet?

A sleeveless padded outer layer, worn for warmth rather than tailoring. Americans call it a vest as well, and that is how the word is doing too much work.

Should the bottom button be left undone?

Yes, on a pointed hem waistcoat. The lowest button usually sits below the natural waist and fastening it pulls the front out of shape when you sit. Straight hemmed waistcoats, including many worn with dinner jackets, are cut to fasten all the way.

What is an odd waistcoat?

One that does not match the suit, in tweed, linen, a check or a different colour. It is a separate tradition from the three piece, and it reads as deliberate where a near matching waistcoat reads as a mistake. Odd here means unmatched, as it does with odd jackets.

Why is the back made of a different fabric?

Cost and comfort, both. The back was never meant to be seen under a jacket, so tailors used lining silk or satin there and saved the suiting for the front. Most also carry a buckle strap at the back so the waist can be pulled in.

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